![]() ![]() Ph1234k ?: Shin kaya has also been made of Tibetan Spruce. Velobici: It is my understanding that "shin-kaya" is Alaskan White Spruce which is not the same as Sitka Spruce which also grows in Alaska. Traditionally, in Japan, a proper sound when the stone is played and wood that is neither too hard nor too soft are desirable qualities. These tend to have a natural yellow color and have different qualities as far as the actual play of a stone is concerned. Other woods that have been used for go boards include various kinds of cedars (hiba, taihi, hinoki), and cypress and ginkgo. Katsura is a darker tan color, rather than a yellow-gold shade, and katsura boards almost never are made with straight grain on the top face. ![]() In price shin kaya has been comparable to katsura, which is probably the most commonly used wood for traditional boards. ![]() Also the grain is coarser and the color not as bright as genuine kaya. Compared with kaya, shin kaya does not have the same "click" sound when a stone is played that some players find desirable. It is popular because it somewhat resembles kaya in appearance and straight-grain on the top board face is relatively cheap. does anyone know exactly what this "shin-kaya" is, what type of wood, and what are its properties.how would it compare to the other types of wood available?īob McGuigan: "Shin kaya" literally is "new kaya" but actually means "imitation kaya". Oldfrog: I have seen go equipment dealers with what they call "shin-kaya" (imitation kaya) gobans which are very affordable. I guess i'll start by calling those tassie blokes and see what woods are recommended, or stocked for that matter.From a general discussion of Material Goban. I don't have a lot of experience with fine work, i've built a decent amount of things out of wood but the goal has always been function and strength over workmanship, so something like this is a little out of my depth. The easiest (and still not easy) is to varnish, draw lines, then varnish again, but not sure if this will provide the look i want.Īs for tapering, i don't know anything about that, but i would be trying to follow the specifications i have found: If i'm oiling the wood then using ink could be a problem, burning is too unpredictable. I've read that marking the lines can be tricky. Not 100% sure how that would work out though, would they stay put, or peel out? I'm not sure about the finishing process, i'll need to do more research regarding what the traditional finish is.Īs for the lines, i had thought to buy thread from a jeweller (platinum / silver or something) and tap them into the wood as the lines. I suppose Celery pine would be better, because you don't want the board to dent. I have other problems for the other game pieces but this is the biggest obstacle at the moment.Ĭelery Pine is a bit harder, huon pine is a bit softer. I am hoping there is an Australian wood which makes a comparable sound which i can track down a nice big pre-dried chunk of (since it won't have time to dry in that time). ![]() It is for my dads 60th which is in August. I imagine the sound is a result of both the grain and density, so those would be more important than colour, but it's also important for the wood to be durable.Ī high quality board is in fact a small table, with the table section being maybe 15-21cm thick, supported by stumpy little legs. But the most important thing for me is the sound. The best Go boards are made from a Japanese pine called the Kaya (torreya nucifera), because of the colour, grain, and the sound that it makes when struck with a stone. I want to make a traditional Go Board, but with substituted Australian materials. This is quite a niche question so i'm hoping someone can help. ![]()
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